Wednesday, July 13, 2011
I recently accepted that my old shoes were done and half a size too big anyway and decided to spring for a new pair. I'd read mixed reviews on the 5.10 Coyote but I like the style and when I had a look in the store they seemed put together well. I handed over my dollars to Lombardi's on Polk St and headed out for a climb in Marin.
New climbing shoes are usually awesome. Still sticky and supportive, not yet grunged out and nasty looking, they're nice. The fit really works for me with the Coyote's. I have a high instep and a wide foot at the ball, so fit in climbing shoes can be a challenge. They really did everything I needed them to and weren't too bad for minimal walking around up top and when figuring out another route at the bottom.
After a few months of one of two outdoor trips a week they seem to be holding up fine. I do try to take care of them, brushing dirt off, wiping down the soles after a climb and letting them air out clipped to, instead of inside, my pack on the way home. When compared to other shoes of much higher price points for what I need regarding outdoor climbing they work great. I've used them for climbs ranging from 5.9 to 5.11d and 5.12's. Nothing beyond and hour or two but they held up well and were fairly grabby even on chert.
My last pair were an older Boreal ACE's that have been good shoes but so far no better than the Coyote, especially considering the price jump. Though I'd love to get my toes into a pair of Ballet Gold's.